As far as Wm Ohs, he does do both styles you mentioned, but on many other drawers he uses panel moldings with a flat recessed panel and the reveal around the perimeter is a lot narrower than on the door below with the same panel mold, except there he uses a raised panel instead of flat.Ĭontributor J, contributor O suggests that the far left design isn't necessarily a lesser design concept, and he's right. And the fact that the rails on the drawers always have to line up with the rails on the doors below. I thought we were talking about the doors on the far left, the ones with the big red circle thing through them. I'm confused - do you guys agree with contributor P in dismissing the far left as bad design? Other than being overly detailed for some tastes, I don't see a problem with the design on the far right. What do you have that proves he details cabinets like the far right option? Regarding Whm OHS, I don't have a complete set of his designs, but what I have seen are mostly solid fronts with shaped edges or solid fronts with panel moldings. Maybe he didn't get the memo, but stiles and rails on his drawers are much thinner than doors below. So, I'm beside you - teach good practice. Very true, when offered, opting the far right design happens! After designing over a 1000 kitchens, I've put it out there more than once especially when salespersons don't know the difference. In short, your idea is a bad design choice. I have only encountered a couple of these, but that is how I will do it, if it comes up again. Whatever the designer/customer wants is the name of the game.Ĭontributor J, that makes a lot of sense. We also run a lot of solid slab drawer faces. The stiles match the doors, and the end cuts on the panels line up vertically with the doors below. If the customer wants a raised panel 5-piece drawer face, then the rails go down to 1-3/4" and when the panels get raised, we run the long edges spaced farther away from the cutter - just enough to maintain at least a 1" tall center flat portion horizontally in the drawer face. I'm not a fan of the single tall rail because of wood movement issues. Any other suggestions? Re-design so the panel is big enough? What do people do when they encounter panels too narrow to raise? I have just made a solid rail from top to bottom. To me, neither of the drawings look good. The drawing is a 30" wide vanity, 3 1/2" toe-kick.Ĭlick here for higher quality, full size image Using 3" stiles and rails, drawer fronts would have a 2" center panel on 36"h cab, and 1 1/2" center panel on 30"h cab. I think it would be a mistake to make door stiles and rails at 1 1/2".ĭepends on how wide the vanity is, but here it is below to scale. It is regularly done that way around here (NE Texas). If you ever want to consider making a design change, try using 2 1/2" stiles and rails for doors and 2 1/2" stiles with 1 1/2" rails for drawer heads. Yes, you can get away with using 3" stiles and rails - it will look good. I am puzzled why anyone suggest using solid drawer faces. If it's your company's design theme or you're matching a design theme, be consistent otherwise, I agree that you should consider solid drawer fronts. I don't know if that is the best way to do it, but it made sense at the time.Īnother vote for matching width stiles and narrower rails on the drawers. On one that was too narrow for a panel, 3.5" or so, I still build it with 3" stiles and a 3.5" rail, so it matches. Drawer rails I use 1.75" or sometimes 1.5" if the panel is really narrow. Also narrower stiles may cause some problem in mounting to drawer box if you need to screw into the stile. Drawer fronts have the same width stiles as the doors and the rails are narrower to give a little more panel. (Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum) Can I get away with using a 3" stile and rail for my two doors or is this bad design? I plan on using 1 1/2" wide stile and rail for all the drawers. I am beginning to construct the drawer boxes and drawer faces. I have built the box of a vanity cabinet and have a 1 1/2" face frame on.
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